Izindaba kanye Cindezela

USid Vicious wayengeke akholwe ukuthi izingubo zakhe ezindala zazibaluleke kangakanani nokuthi abakhwabanisi bangenza umzamo omkhulu ukuze bazenze mbumbulu.
Kungekudala, isazi-mlando se-pop esizinze eLondon uPaul Gorman, umbhali we-The Life and Times kaMalcolm McLaren: A Biography, kanye nomdayisi wendali we-Rock Fashion uPaul Gorman bathole ucezu lukaMarr. Ihembe elenziwe ilebula lika-Malcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries, cishe ngo-1977, ukuze lihlolwe.
Yenziwe nge-muslin futhi ihlanganisa umfanekiso obonakala ngokushesha weciko u-Jamie Reid wemikhono ye-Sex Pistols' single "Anarchy in the UK".
Uma kuyiqiniso, izolanda intengo enhle endalini. Endalini yase-Bonhams ngoMeyi, ihembe leparashute likaMnu McLaren lika-1977 kanye noNkz. Westwood lathengiswa ngo-$6,660, kanye nejezi le-mohair elingavamile elimnyama nelibomvu elifekethiswe ngogebhezi kanye ama-crossbones kanye ne-“Sex Pistols” No Future “Lyrics” athengisa ngo-$8,896.
Kodwa-ke, uMnu Gorman akazange aqiniseke ukuthi ihembe alihlolayo yilokho okwakufunwa umnikazi walo.
“AmaSulumane awasasebenzi kwezinye izindawo,” kusho uMnu. Gorman.” Kodwa kwenye indawo, indwangu yayisentsha kakhulu. Uyinki wawungeyona ikhwalithi yawo-1970 futhi awuzange usabalale endwangu.” Ebuzwa mayelana nokuvela kwayo, umdayisi uhoxise ucezu endlini yendali wathi wabe esethengiswa ngasese .
Uyemukelwa emhlabeni omangalisayo nonenzuzo wamapunk mbumbulu. Kule minyaka engu-30 edlule, sizenza sengathi siklanywe ngezandla ngemiklamo yasekuqaleni ehlanganisa i-S-and-M nezithombe ezingcolile, ukusikeka okusha namabhande, amaphethini ensalela yezempi, ama-tweeds kanye ne-latex - Sid Vicious kanye ontanga yakhe ku-Anarchy Okwaduma ngesikhathi semibono - sekuphenduke imboni yokukhula.
“Ngithola ama-imeyili amaningana njalo ngenyanga ngibuza ukuthi kukhona okuyiqiniso yini,” kusho uSteven Philip, umgcini wezincwadi zemfashini, umqoqi kanye nomeluleki.” Ngeke ngibambe iqhaza. Abantu bathenga igolide leziwula. Kuhlala kukhona amanga angama-500 eqiniso. ”
Iminyaka engu-50, uMnu McLaren kanye noNkz Westwood bavule isitolo sabo sokudayisa i-counterculture, i-Let It Rock, e-430 King's Road, eLondon. indawo ye-punk.
Eminyakeni engu-10 eyalandela, lesi sitolo sashintshwa saba i-Sex and Seditionaries, sethula ukubukeka nomsindo owaba nemiphumela efinyelela kude futhi wakwazi ukuqoqwa.” Izimpahla zodwa ziyindlala kakhulu ngenxa yezizathu eziningi,” kusho u-Alexander Fury, umbhali. kwesithi “Vivienne Westwood Catwalk.” “Izikhathi zabo zokukhiqiza zifushane, izingubo ziyabiza, futhi abantu bavame ukuzithenga futhi bazigqoke zize ziqhekeke.”
Umqondisi wezobuciko we-Dior kanye no-Fendi, u-Kim Jones, unomsebenzi omningi wokuqala futhi ukholelwa ukuthi “u-Westwood noMcLaren badale ipulani yezingubo zesimanje. Babengababoni,” usho kanje.
Izimyuziyamu eziningi nazo ziqoqa lezi zinto.UMichael Costiff, usocialite, umklami wangaphakathi kanye nomgcini weWorld Archives for Dover Street Market Stores, wayeyiklayenti lokuqala likaMnu. McLaren kanye noNksz Westwood. Izingubo ezingu-178 wazihlanganisa nomkakhe, uGerlinde, manje ziseqoqweni leVictoria and Albert Museum, eyathenga iqoqo likaMnu Costiff ngo-2002 ngama-£42,500 ku-National Art Collection Fund.
Inani le-vintage McLaren kanye ne-Westwood libenza babe okuqondiwe kubaphangi bemfashini. Ezingeni elisobala kakhulu, ama-replicas atholakala ku-inthanethi futhi athengiswa ngokuqondile nangeshibhile, ngaphandle kokukhohlisa - umfanekiso nje ojwayelekile esikimbeni esilula.
"Lesi siqeshana sivela emlandweni wezobuciko," kusho u-Paul Stolper, umdwebi wegalari ozinze eLondon oqoqo lakhe elikhulu lemisebenzi yoqobo ye-punk manje liseMetropolitan Museum of Art." Isithombe noma ezimbili zenkathi ethile, njengoChe. UGuevara noma u-Marilyn, ugcina esakazwa ngesiko lethu. Ama-Sex Pistols achaza inkathi, ngakho izithombe zikhiqizwa njalo.”
Bese kuba khona amanga asobala kakhudlwana, afana nesikibha esishibhile seSithelo se-Loom esinoMickey Mouse obethelwe esiphambanweni, noma izikhindi zokugqilazwa “ZOCANSI zangempela” zika-$190 ezivela ku-A Store Robot e-Tokyo ezibonakala kalula njengezingezona ezoqobo, Ngenxa indwangu entsha kanye neqiniso lokuthi lesi sitayela asizange senziwa ngempela ngeminyaka yawo-1970. Imakethe yaseJapane igcwele ama-fake.
Ngonyaka odlule, uMnu Gorman wathola ingubo ebizwa ngokuthi “Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt” ku-eBay e-UK, ayithenga njengecala lokufunda ngo-£100 (cishe ama-$139) .
Wathi: “Kuyisibonelo esithakazelisayo somgunyathi.” Akukaze kube khona. Kodwa ukwengezwa kwesiqubulo esithi 'Ukubhujiswa' kanye nokuhlasela kokuzama ukusebenzisa umlingiswa wekhathuni othandwa kakhulu ovezwe ngendlela ephikisana namasiko kwaqondisa indlela kaMcLaren ne-Westwood. Ngisebenzisa uchwepheshe Abaphrinta bakuqinisekisile ukuthi o-inki besimanje, kanye nokuthungwa kwezikibha.”
Umfelokazi kaMnu McLaren, u-Young Kim, usebenze kanzima eminyakeni edlule ukuze alondoloze ifa kanye nefa lakhe. bekungamanga. Izingubo zakuqala zazincane. UMalcolm wabenza bamlingana noVivienne. Izingubo eziningi ku-Met bezizinkulu futhi zilingana nama-pre-punk anamuhla. "
Zikhona ezinye izimpawu.” Banepheya le-tweed nelesikhumba, okuyivelakancane futhi eliyiqiniso,” kusho uNksz King.” Kuyenzeka babe nepheya lesibili, okungelona iqiniso. Umthungo uphezu kwebhande, hhayi ngaphakathi, njengoba kungaba ingubo eyenziwe kahle. Futhi i-D-ring yintsha kakhulu. "
Umsebenzi embukisweni we-Met ka-2013 othi “Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture” udonse ukunakwa ngemuva kokuthi uNksz King noMnu. Gorman bephawule esidlangalaleni ngezinsolo zomgunyathi nokunye okuningi okungahambisani nohlelo.
Kodwa kunemibuzo mayelana nomsebenzi owawungene emnyuziyamu eminyakeni eyisishiyagalombili ngaphambili.Izibonelo zihlanganisa isudi yokugqilazwa eyavela kakhulu embukisweni we-“Anglomania” wango-2006, oshiwo ngumdayisi wezinto zakudala ozinze eLondon u-Simon Easton, kanye nenkampani eqashisayo yase-Westwood kanye ne-McLaren iPunk. I-Pistol Collection, ehlinzeke ngabadwebi bezitayela nabenzi bamafilimu, kanye no-2003, uMnumzane Stone wase-Iraq kanye nozakwabo ebhizinisini, u-Gerald Bowey, basungula imnyuziyamu ku-inthanethi.Ngesikhathi esithile, imnyuziyamu yayeka ukufaka kuhlu amasudi njengengxenye yeqoqo layo.
"Ngo-2015, izingcezu ezimbili zeMcLaren-Westwood eqoqweni lethu zatholwa njengezingamanga," kusho u-Andrew Bolton, umphathi omkhulu eMetropolitan Costume Institute." Imisebenzi yabuye yabuyiswa. Ucwaningo lwethu kule ndawo lusaqhubeka.”
UMnu Gorman uthumele uMnu Bolton ama-imeyili ambalwa lapho athi khona eminye imisebenzi kulolu chungechunge inezinkinga, kodwa uMnu Gorman wathi uMnu Bolton akabange esamphendula. Umkhulumeli we-Costume Institute uthe lezi zingcezu sezihlolwe ochwepheshe izikhathi ezingaphezu kwesisodwa. U-Bolton unqabile ukunikeza noma yikuphi ukuphawula okwengeziwe ngalesi sihloko.
UMnu Easton, ongathandanga ukuphawula ngalesi sihloko, uthe nge-imeyili uMnu Bowie ubemkhulumela, kodwa igama lakhe alicimeki ku-punk legend. Ngokuhamba kweminyaka, ingosi yakhe ye-PunkPistol.com, eyagcinwa kungobo yomlando ngo-2008, ithathwa abaningi njengesisetshenziswa esigcina umlando esithembekile semiklamo yasekuqaleni yeMcLaren ne-Westwood.
Kodwa-ke, uMnu Bowie uthe naphezu kwemizamo yabo emihle kakhulu yokuqinisekisa ukuqoqwa, “indlela engahlelekile lapho izingubo ezaqanjwa ngayo, zakhiqizwa futhi zaphinde zakhiqizwa yakuvimbela. Namuhla, ngisho nohlu lwekhathalogu yendali, amarisidi futhi kwezinye izimo eziphuma esitifiketini saseWestwood, lezi zingubo zisaphikisana.”
Ngomhla ziyisi-9 kuSepthemba, 2008, uMnu. McLaren waziswe okokuqala ngezinga lokukhwabanisa okumzungezile kanye noNkz. Westwood nge-imeyili engaziwa ethunyelwe nguMnu. Gorman yalesi sihloko futhi yaqinisekiswa nguNkz. Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Ngemuva kwemibiko, amaphoyisa agasele ezindlini eCroydon nase-Eastbourne, lapho athola khona amalebula ama-agitator," kusho i-imeyili. Siyakwamukela uMnu Grant Howard kanye noMnu Lee Parker.”
UGrant Champkins-Howard, manje osengu-DJ obizwa ngokuthi uGrant Dale, kanye no-Lee Parker, osebenza ngamapayipi, baquliswa eKingston Crown Court ngoJuni 2010, kusho iJaji uSusan Matthews. “Bangamaxoki asebekhulile”. Impahla yabo yagaselwa ngempela ngo-2008 yi-Metropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad futhi yashaqa izimpahla okusolakala ukuthi zingezomgunyathi zakwaMcLaren kanye ne-Westwood nezinye izinto ezihlobene nazo, kanye namaphrinti omkokotelo angu-120 akwa-Banksy.
Laba ababili kamuva batholakala benecala lokukhohlisa umsebenzi kaBanksy.UMnu. UMcLaren, okuwukuphela komdali wezingubo zokuqala ze-Sex and Seditionaries ozimisele ukufakaza, wacelwa ukuba ahlole izinto ezibanjiwe futhi akhombe imikhondo yokuthi izingubo kwakungezomgunyathi: usayizi ongalungile wombhalo we-stencil, izindwangu ezingahambisani, ukusetshenziswa kwe-YKK kunoziphu obhalwe ngombani. , ukuhlanganisa kwezithombe okungalungile kanye nesikibha esidala esimhlophe.
“Ubethukuthele egane unwabu,” kusho uNksz King.” Wayezizwa eqinile ngokuvikela nokuvikela umsebenzi wakhe. Bekuyigugu kuye.” Ngemva kokubhidlika kobudlelwano phakathi kukaMnu McLaren kanye noNkz Westwood ngo-1984, kwaba khona ukungaboni ngaso linye isikhathi eside phakathi kwalaba ababili.
UMnu Howard noMnu Parker banikezwe izigwebo ezilengisiwe ecaleni likaBanks, kodwa icala lezingubo zomgunyathi lahoxiswa ngesikhathi uMnu McLaren eshona ngo-2010 ngoba wayengufakazi oqavile wabashushisi kulo mkhakha.
Nokho, kuvele ukuthi umndeni kaNks Westwood kungenzeka ukuthi udale noma ubhebhethekise imboni ye-punk mbumbulu ngokungaqondile.” Ngenza izinhlelo ezilinganiselwe zemiklamo ethile yokuqala ukuze ngiqoqe imali yokwethula i-Agent Provocateur,” kusho uJoe Corré, indodana kaMnu. McLaren kanye noNkz. .Westwood, owavula eyakhe impahla yangaphansi ebhizinisini ngo-1994.
“Siphinde sakha isikibha sethambo lenkukhu kanye nesikibha se-'Venus'," kusho uMnu. Corré. “Zazibhalwe njengezifanekiselo zenguqulo elinganiselwe, zakhiqizwa ngenani elilinganiselwe lezingcezu eziyi-100, zase zidayiswa emakethe yaseJapan. .” Ngaphambi kwalezi zifaniso ezinemininingwane futhi ezibizayo, ukukhiqizwa kabusha kwemisebenzi bekukhawulelwe kuzikrini zikasilika ezitholakala kuma-T-shirts athengiswayo Ukuphrinta, isivinini sokukhiqiza siyashesha, futhi intengo ishibhile.
UMnu. Corré uthe uVivienne Westwood ugunyaze ukukhiqiza kabusha. UMcLaren wayethukuthele. Kwi-imeyili yangomhla ziyi-14 kuMfumfu wezi-2008 eqenjini elihlanganisa nentatheli uSteven Daly, uMnu McLaren wabhala: “Ubani obavumele ukuba benze lokhu? Ngatshela uJoe ukuthi ayeke ngokushesha ambhalele .Ngithukuthele.”
UMnu. Corré, osanda kuba umqondisi we-Vivienne Foundation, “usebenzisa amalungelo okushicilela umsebenzi wakhe ngendlela yozwela ukuze aqoqe imali yezizathu ezihlukahlukene.” Uthe uzobheka ukuthi "ungaqeda" kanjani ukukhwabanisa. UNkz King uyaqhubeka nokulwela ifa likaMnu McLaren futhi ukholelwa ukuthi wesulwa kaningi emlandweni wakhe.
Ibhizinisi likaMnu. Easton kanye noMnu. Bowey le-punk pistol liyaqhubeka nokudayisa umsebenzi kaNkz. Westwood kanye noMnu McLaren ngesitolo sakwa-Etsy, i-SeditionariesInTheUK, iningi lazo elinencwadi yesitifiketi evela eNkampanini yase-Vivienne Westwood, esayinwe, yaklanywa futhi yafakwa kungobo yomlando ngu-Murray Blewett. Lokhu kwakuhlanganisa amahembe anemigqa anakhola ka-Peter Pan namapeshi kasilika ka-Karl Marx ahlanekezelwe, namabhantshi erabha kakotini aphefumulelwe nguLevi.
I-inthanethi ayiqinile njengezindlu eziningi zendali, futhi ngeke baphawule ngalesi sihloko, kodwa bathi bamele kuphela imisebenzi enezinhlamvu ezingangenwa izinhlamvu, okungukuthi izithombe zomnikazi egqoke izingubo ngeminyaka yawo-1970.
“Kubalulekile ukuqonda ukuthi izisulu eziningi zokwenziwa mbumbulu ziyizisulu ezizimisele,” kusho uMnu Gorman.” Bafuna ngempela ukukholelwa ukuthi bayingxenye yendaba yokuqala. Yilokho okuphathelene nemfashini, akunjalo? Konke kuqhutshwa isifiso.”