Izindaba kanye Cindezela

Ngakho-ke ufuna ukuthenga into entsha, kodwa awufuni ukufaka isandla ezibalweni ezithusa ngempela ozitholayo lapho i-Googling “ithonya lemfashini lemvelo.” Wenzani
Uma ungathanda ukusimama, kungenzeka ukuthi uzwe inguqulo yalesi sisho: “I-___ esimeme kakhulu yilokho osuvele unakho.”Kuyiqiniso, kodwa akusebenzi ngaso sonke isikhathi, ikakhulukazi uma Izingubo: Izitayela ziyashintsha, kanjalo nezezimali, futhi ufuna ukuqhubeka nokuba nezinto ezintsha ezicwebezelayo.Nokho, imboni yezemfashini kufanele yehlise ijubane.Ngokombiko wakamuva we-Bloomberg, imfashini yenza amaphesenti angu-10 okukhishwa kwesikhutha emhlabeni jikelele kanye nengxenye eyodwa kwesihlanu yokukhiqizwa kwepulasitiki yomhlaba wonke ngonyaka.
Okulandelayo okuhle kakhulu ngokugqoka izingubo osuvele unazo yilokho imboni yezemfashini ekubiza ngokuthi “ukusetshenziswa ngokuqaphela.” Ngokuvamile sihlobanisa izindleko eziphezulu nekhwalithi ephezulu, kodwa akunjalo.
Umthengi wengqephu u-Amanda Lee McCarty, ophethe iphodikasti ye-Clotheshorse, usebenze njengomthengi iminyaka engaphezu kwe-15, ikakhulukazi embonini yemfashini esheshayo—uthatha lokho akubiza ngokuthi “imfashini esheshayo” yale mboni njengesihlalo esingaphambili. Ngemva kokuwohloka komnotho ngo-2008, amakhasimende afuna izaphulelo, futhi uma abathengisi abavamile bengazinikezi, i-Forever21 iyakwenza, esho.
Isixazululo, uMcCarty uthe, ukubeka amanani entengo ephezulu bese uhlela ukudayisa iningi lazo ngesaphulelo - okusho ukuthi izindleko zokukhiqiza ziya ngokuya zehla." abe izinga eliphansi.”
UMcCarty uthe ithonya seligcwele imboni, laze lafinyelela ezinkampanini zemfashini eziwubukhazikhazi.Yingakho namuhla, “ukutshala imali” akulula njengokuthenga into ebizayo.Noma kunjalo, akuwona wonke umuntu ongasebenzisa imali eningi ekuthengeni ingubo, futhi kunjalo nabaningi. Izinga lemikhiqizo eqhubekayo
Khetha imicu yemvelo—ukotini, ilineni, usilika, uvolo, i-hemp, njll—ezohlala isikhathi eside kunawo wonke ekhabetheni lakho. Ngokukhethekile, usilika utholakale uyindwangu ehlala isikhathi eside kakhulu ngokwesikhathi sokuyisebenzisa, kulandelwa uvolo. Lokho ngokwengxenye ngoba lezi zindwangu nazo zinesikhathi eside kakhulu phakathi kokuwashwa, okusiza ukuzigcina zisesimweni esihle.Izindwangu zemvelo ziyakwazi ukubola futhi zigaywe kabusha uma sezigqokile.(Ngokuphambene, i-polyester iyona esebenza isikhathi eside kunawo wonke emhlabeni, ngokombiko unyaka.)
U-Erin Beatty, umsunguli we-Rentrayage, uthe uyathanda ukuthola i-hemp ne-jute ngoba ziyizitshalo ezivuselelekayo.
Ku-Rebecca Burgess, umsunguli nomqondisi we-Fibershed engenzi nzuzo kanye nombhali we-Fibershed: A Movement for Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Manufacturers for the New Textile Economy, imayelana nokufuna ukuxhasa imiphakathi yasendaweni yabalimi, ikakhulukazi indwangu eyenziwe e-US. “Ngifuna amaphesenti ayi-100 evolo noma amaphesenti angu-100 kakotini kanye nemikhiqizo elandelekayo yasepulazini,” kusho yena.”Lapho ngihlala khona eCalifornia, ukotini noboya kuyimicu eyinhloko esiyikhiqizayo.Ngingamela noma iyiphi i-fiber yemvelo eqondene ne-bioregion-specific. "
Kukhona nesigaba semicu okungeyona ipulasitiki kodwa engeyona eyemvelo ngokuphelele.I-Viscose iyifayibha etholakala ku-pulp yokhuni efakwe amakhemikhali e-sodium hydroxide kanye ne-carbon disulfide.Kunezinkinga ezithile nge-viscose: Ngokusho kwe-Good on You. , inqubo yokukhiqiza i-viscose iyamosha futhi ingcolisa imvelo, futhi ukukhiqizwa kwe-viscose kuyimbangela yokuqothulwa kwamahlathi.Nokho, ekugcineni i-biodegradable, okuyinto enhle.
Muva nje, i-Eco Vero - ifayibha ye-viscose esebenzisa inqubo yokukhiqiza enomthwalo wemfanelo kakhudlwana nengenawo umthelela omncane - iqalisiwe - ngakho-ke ezinye izinyathelo ziyathathwa ukuze kuthuthukiswe i-carbon footprint yale micu yokwenziwa kwe-semi-synthetic.(Bese sichasisa i-semi-synthetic.
Bheka i-eco-fabrics: Imininingwane yendaba yokukhiqiza i-fiber - zimbalwa futhi zimbalwa izindlela ezisimeme zokukhiqiza imicu yemvelo njengokotini nosilika, njengama-semi-synthetic fibers angaboli. , kodwa ungabheka usilika we-Ahimsa ogcina izikelemu.Ungabheka izitifiketi zezinqubo zokukhiqiza eziqotho neziqhubekayo.Uma ungabaza, u-Caric uncoma ukuthi kubhekwe isitifiketi se-GOTS noma se-Global Organic Textile Standard esinezidingo eziqinile zemvelo.Njengoba sikhuluma , izindlela ezintsha ezihlukile zezindwangu zepulasitiki ziyadalwa;isibonelo, "isikhumba se-vegan" ngokomlando senziwe ngamapulasitiki ahlanzekile atholakala ku-petroleum, kodwa izinto ezintsha ezifana nesikhumba samakhowe nesikhumba sikaphayinaphu zibonisa isithembiso esikhulu.
I-Google ingumngane wakho: Akuwona wonke amabhrendi anikeza imininingwane yokuthi indwangu ikhiqizwa kanjani, kodwa bonke abakhiqizi bezingubo kudingeka bafake ilebula yangaphakathi ehlukanisa i-fiber yengubo ngamaphesenti. ngaphandle kokuthi izinhlobo eziningi zemikhiqizo - ikakhulukazi amabhrendi emfashini asheshayo - ahlanganisa ngamabomu amalebula awo.Ipulasitiki ihamba ngamagama amaningi, ngakho-ke kuhle ukuthi usebenzise amagama ka-google ongawazi.
Uma sishintsha imiqondo yethu futhi sibona ukuthenga i-jean njengokuzinikela kweminyaka yonke noma ukutshalwa kwezimali okuzuzisayo, kunokuba kube isifiso, maningi amathuba okuthi sigcine esikuthengayo futhi sigqoke esinakho. Ngemva kokuhlola izimiso zokuziphatha zokuthenga. , uCaric uthi, ubeka kuqala izingubo ezimenza ajabule — okuhlanganisa nezitayela.” Uma uthanda ngempela lo mkhuba futhi uzowugqoka eminyakeni emibili kusukela manje, kuhle lokho,” usho kanje.” Abantu bathola okuningi. zobumnandi ezingutsheni.Yinto esiyenza nsuku zonke futhi kufanele siyizwe kahle.”
UBeatty uyavuma ukuthi izingubo ozigqoka kanye noma kabili ziyinkinga: “Empeleni imayelana, yiziphi lezo zicucu ezizochaza ukubukeka kwakho ngokuphindaphindiwe?”Ingxenye yalokho ukucabanga ngendlela yokunakekela ucezu lwengubo ngaphambi kokuyithenga;isibonelo, ingabe ihlanzeka okomile kuphela?Uma zingekho izinto zokuhlanza ezomile ezivumelana nemvelo endaweni yakini, kungase kungabi nengqondo ukuthenga lo mkhiqizo.
KuMcCarty, esikhundleni sokuthenga ngokuxhamazela, wazinika isikhathi sokucabanga ukuthi ucezu lungangena kanjani futhi kuphi ekhabetheni lakhe lezingubo.” Ungamangala ukuthi zingaki izingubo ezimpofu kakhulu, ezingabambeki ezingasuswa ngaso leso sikhathi empilweni yakho yilo mdlalo. ”
Ekupheleni kwencwadi kaBill McKibben ethi “Earth,” enye yezincwadi ezinethemba elikhulu engizifundile mayelana nenkinga yesimo sezulu, uphetha ngokuthi, ngokuyisisekelo, ezayo yethu Ikusasa liwukubuyela esimweni sezomnotho esenziwe sasendaweni, esisezingeni elincane.Burgess uyavuma: ukuhlala endaweni kuyisihluthulelo sokuthenga okusimeme.” Ngifuna ukweseka imiphakathi yami yabalimi kanye namafuyo ngoba ngifuna ukuyibona yehlisa ukuthembela kwayo emnothweni othunyelwa kwamanye amazwe,” kusho yena.” Ngifuna ukugqugquzela abalimi ukuthi bawunakekele. indawo yami yasendaweni ngokukhetha kwami ​​ukuthenga.”
U-Abrima Erwiah - uprofesa, uchwepheshe wemfashini esimeme kanye nomsunguli we-Studio 189 - uthatha indlela efanayo. Nakuba ethenga ezinkampanini ezinkulu ezisimeme ezifana no-Eileen Fisher, uMfoweth 'uVellies kanye noMara Hoffman, uvame ukubheka amabhizinisi amancane enyakatho yeNew York. .”Ngithanda ukuthi ungaya lapho uzobona ukuthi benzani,” kusho yena.
Umsebenzi awenzayo manje uyazuza ngesikhathi sakhe sokuzithandela eGhana nokuhlala nezihlobo, okumsizile ukuthi acabange kabusha indlela athenga ngayo. Ukuxhumana kwakhe okuqinile nabachwepheshe bezingubo kumsize ukuba aqonde ukuthi yonke into kusukela epulazini kuye kweyokugqoka ixhumene kanjani.” njengeGhana enezinto eziningi ezingamasekeni, uyabona ukuthi kwenzekani uma ungasazidingi izinto zakho.”
Uma umkhiqizo ulwela ukulandelela umsuka oqondile wezingubo zawo futhi uphumele obala mayelana nemikhuba yawo, ubonisa izindinganiso eziqinile eziwumgogodla. Uma uthenga mathupha, u-Erwiah uthi kungcono ukubuza imibuzo mayelana nemikhuba yayo yokuziphatha neyokuzinza. yezindlela ezingcono kakhulu zokuzihlolela ukuthi izingubo zabo zikufanele yini ukutshalwa imali.Ngisho noma umkhiqizo ungenazo zonke izimpendulo, ukubuzwa kungase kuwuphushele ukushintsha lokho - uma kuyibhizinisi elincane, kungenzeka ukuthi ukhuluma nalo. umuntu onethonya elithile ezenzweni zebhizinisi.Enkampanini enkulu, uma izisebenzi zivame ukubuzwa mayelana nokusimama, ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, zingase zibone ukuthi lokhu kubaluleke kakhulu kumakhasimende futhi zenze izinguquko.Eqinisweni, ukuthenga okuningi manje kwenzeka ku-inthanethi.Yini U-Caric ubefuna ukuthi ingabe uhlobo oluthile luvakashela amafekthri kanye nokuthi lufaka phakathi ulwazi kuwebhusayithi yabo mayelana nendlela abakhokhela ngayo abasebenzi babo. Akukaze kube buhlungu ukuthumela i-imeyili uma unemibuzo eyengeziwe.
Ukugaywa kabusha kungenye yamagama ajwayelekile asetshenziswa ukuhlanza imfashini esheshayo. I-polyester egaywe kabusha ingaba yinkinga ikakhulukazi. Kodwa ngokuka-Erwiah, konke kumayelana nokuklama okunenjongo. Ucaphuna i-cradle to cradle philosophy.Kuhle ukushintsha amabhodlela epulasitiki abe yizingubo zokujima. , kodwa ziphenduka zibe yini ngemva kwalokho?Mhlawumbe idinga ukuhlala injengoba injalo futhi ihlale isetshenziswa isikhathi eside ngangokunokwenzeka;“ngesinye isikhathi kungcono ukungalishintshi,” kusho u-Erwiah.” Uma kuyibhulukwe elijulukayo, mhlawumbe kumayelana nokulisebenzisa kabusha futhi ulinikeze impilo yesibili, kunokutshala imali eningi ekwakheni enye into.Asikho isixazululo esilingana konke.”
Lapho uBeatty enquma ukuqalisa i-Rentrayage, wagxila ekugayeni kabusha lokho ayevele enakho, esebenzisa izingubo zakudala, izindwangu ezifile, nezinye izinto ezazisetshenziswa kakade—wayelokhu efuna amagugu, njengalezo zikibha eziphuma kanye. "Enye yezinto ezimbi kakhulu emvelweni yilezi zikibha zokugqoka okukodwa ezenzelwe lo mjaho noma okuthile," kusho u-Beatty." Ngokuvamile, ungathola imibala emihle kakhulu.Siyawasika futhi abukeka emuhle.”Eziningi zalezi zikibha ziyinhlanganisela ye-cotton-polyester, kodwa njengoba sezikhona kakade, kufanele zisakazwe njengezingubo isikhathi eside ngangokunokwenzeka , uBeatty uzama ukuphinda azisebenzise ngoba azigugi ngokushesha.Uma ungasadingi ucezu. wezingubo ezigaywe kabusha emzimbeni wakho, ungawuthuthukisa ube yikhaya lakho.” Ngibona abantu beshintsha iziketi zibe amanabukeni,” kusho uBeatty.
Kwezinye izimo, awutholi ngaso sonke isikhathi izimiso zomkhiqizo noma okuqukethwe kwefayibha lapho uthenga izinto ezisetshenzisiwe.Nokho, ukunikeza ukubukeka okusha engutsheni esivele intanta emhlabeni wonke futhi egcina isendaweni yokulahla imfucumfucu kuhlale kuyinketho eqhubekayo.
Ngisho nasezitolo zamasekeni, kunezindlela zokuhlola izinga namandla ahlala njalo, uCaric uthe.Mayelana nedenim, uCaric usho izinto ezimbili okufanele uzibheke: Isikwe ku-selvedge, futhi imithungo yangaphakathi nangaphandle ithungwe kabili.Lezi zonke izindlela zokuqinisa izingubo ukuze zihlale isikhathi eside ngangokunokwenzeka ngaphambi kokudinga ukulungiswa.
Ukuthenga ucezu lwezingubo kuhlanganisa ukuzibophezela ngomjikelezo wempilo yento - okusho ukuthi uma sesidlule kukho konke lokhu futhi sayithenga, kufanele siyinakekele kahle. Ikakhulukazi ngezindwangu zokwenziwa, inqubo yokuwasha ilondolo kuyinkimbinkimbi.Kuwumqondo omuhle ukutshala esikhwameni sokuhlunga ukuze umise ukukhululwa kwe-microplastics ohlelweni lwamanzi, futhi uma uzimisele ukuchitha imali encane ukuze uyifake, ungathenga isihlungi somshini wakho wokuwasha.Uma ungakwazi , gwema ukusebenzisa umshini wokomisa ngokuphelele.”Lapho ungabaza, yigeze bese womisa umoya.Yinto engcono kakhulu ongayenza,” kusho uBeatty.
UMcCarty futhi utusa ukufunda ilebula yokunakekela ngaphakathi kwengubo.Uma usuzazi izimpawu nezinto zokwakha, uzoqala ukwazi ukuthi yini okufanele ihlanzwe okomile nokuthi yini efaneleka ukugeza izandla/izimo ezomile emoyeni.UMcCarty futhi uncoma ukuthenga incwadi kaHeloise ethi “Handy Incwadi ethi Household Hints”, avame ukuyibona ezitolo ezithengisa izinto ngemali engaphansi kwe-$5, nokufunda izindlela zokuthintwa eziyisisekelo, njengokushintsha izinkinobho nezimbobo zokuchibiyela. Futhi, yazi uma usuphumile ekujuleni kwakho;ngezinye izikhathi, kufanelekile ukutshala imali ekuthungeni.Ngemva kokushintsha ulwelwesi lwejazi lakudala, uMcCarty ukholelwa ukuthi uzobe eligqokile okungenani iminyaka engu-20 ezayo.
Enye inketho yokubuyekeza izingubo ezidayiwe noma ezigugile: odayi.” Ungalinge uwabuke phansi amandla kadayi omnyama,” kusho uBeatty.” Leyo ngenye imfihlo.Senza njalo kanye ngesikhathi.Isebenza izimanga.”
Ngokuthumela i-imeyili yakho, uyavumelana nemigomo yethu nesitatimende sobumfihlo futhi nokwamukela ukuxhumana kwe-imeyili okuvela kithi.
Le imeyili izosetshenziselwa ukungena kuzo zonke izingosi zaseNew York.Ngokuthumela i-imeyili yakho, uyavumelana nemigomo yethu kanye nenqubomgomo yobumfihlo kanye nokwamukela ukuxhumana kwe-imeyili okuvela kithi.
Njengengxenye ye-akhawunti yakho, uzothola izibuyekezo nezaphulelo ngezikhathi ezithile ezivela eNew York futhi ungahoxa noma kunini.
Le imeyili izosetshenziselwa ukungena kuzo zonke izingosi zaseNew York.Ngokuthumela i-imeyili yakho, uyavumelana nemigomo yethu kanye nenqubomgomo yobumfihlo kanye nokwamukela ukuxhumana kwe-imeyili okuvela kithi.
Njengengxenye ye-akhawunti yakho, uzothola izibuyekezo nezaphulelo ngezikhathi ezithile ezivela eNew York futhi ungahoxa noma kunini.